Thoughts on Manila

Over the past two weeks I have often found myself comparing Manila to Shenzhen. They are similar in many ways, but have noticeable differences. While I am working and networking with mainly the rich and powerful (had dinner with 3 harvard grads on tuesday), Manila is far less developed. The level of poverty here is much more out in the open than what I saw in China. I haven’t had the chance to travel to a really impoverished area in the Philippines yet, although I am planning to in the next week. But even in Manila, entire neighborhoods consist of people essentially squatting in makeshift slums along the banks and overhanging the heavily polluted Pasig river. From what I have learned, they are totally undocumented and unregulated, and people just live there as long as the government will let them.

Because of the lack of development, particularly with roads and drainage systems, there is constant traffic. I didn’t think it was possible, but Manila is noticeably more crowded than Shenzhen. At rush hour it can take an hour and a half to drive from the office to our apartment, a drive that in the middle of the night would take 10-15 minutes. taking the Light Rail during rush hour is quite hectic, with lines stretching out into the street and train cars packed to the gills with passengers. It is currently the rainy season, and when it rains the streets and sidewalks flood. I’m talking water literally up to your knees, which just exacerbates the traffic issues.

Many people do speak english, far more than in Shenzhen, but not everyone. Even those that do know english often speak tagalog, and business meetings and general chatter around the office often jump back into Tagalog. I am picking it up pretty quickly, but obviously have trouble picking up the subtleties of long conversations about rural empowerment.

I stand out due to my physical appearance, but not near as much as in China. No one has asked to take a photo with me, and children do not point at me and shout “foreigner!” I am called Sir quite often, but that is very common even among Filipinos.

The culture is much more open. In the business world people are very laid back and prone to make inappropriate jokes. Apparently I live in an area with abundant prostitution, which people like to joke around about. One of the closest villages we work with apparently has many volunteers from France and other european countries, and at least two people have suggested that I hook up with some or all of them.

There is far less propaganda and much better television programming. Jeff (my so-worker and roommate) likes to cook, and I swear there is a cooking show on 24hrs a day.

I can’t say I am super into the food yet. Home-cooked meals have been great, and I have had some really excellent dishes at expensive restaurants. But the low budget spots and street food haven’t thrilled. Still looking for the equivalent of $.50 dumplings.

In general here I am much busier, working pretty long hours and spending at least an hour commuting every day. I am trying to use that commuting time in the car with Jeff to practice Tagalog, which he is pretty receptive to. He is an academic at heart, and tutors math and english as a side job, so enjoys teaching.